[Fashion] Gutierre, Marques de Careaga, Invectiva en Discursos Apologéticos. Contra el Abuso de las Guedejas, 1637. Madrid. Maria de Quiñones a costa de Pedro Coello.

[Fashion] Gutierre, Marques de Careaga

Invectiva en Discursos Apologéticos. Contra el Abuso de las Guedejas, 1637. Madrid. Maria de Quiñones a costa de Pedro Coello.

Men shouldn’t wear long hair

First edition, a singular 17th century discussion on the prohibition for men to wear long hair. The author complains that they “occupy all their senses in curling their hair, tying it up with ribbons or forcing it into the proper shape with irons.” Gutierre Marqués de Careaga, or Cariaga y Vargas (1588-1652), was a Spanish poet, essayist and jurist. A member of Lope de Vega's circle, he was a friend of the poets and playwrights Juan Pérez de Montalbán and Juan Ruiz de Alarcón, both of whom dedicated sonnets to him. Both works rail against men who wear their long hair in elaborate styles. The underlying theme is homophobia. Effeminate males were frequently attacked by Golden Age ecclesiastics and moralists, who felt that excessive femininity in dress and personal care was an indication of latent, if not patent, homosexuality. Very rare.

$ 3,000.00

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8vo, (140 x 94 mm). (8), 53, (3) ff. Late 18th century mottled sheep, smooth spine richly gilt, marbled endleaves, text block edges rouged. Skillful small repairs to outer margin of title page, otherwise in very good condition. Long, old ink manuscript marginal annotation on leaf B3 verso and markings.

Palau 152584; Salvá 3942; Heredia 6219; Goldsmith, M102. Jerez p. 72; HSA p. 337.

[Offered with]: Pregon en que su Magestad Manda, que por Quanto el Abuso de las Guedejas y Copetes con que andan Algunos Hombres, y los Rizos con que Componen el Cabello ha Llegado a Hazer Escandalo en Estos Reynos, ningun Hombre Pueda TraerGuedejas ni Copete. 1639. Seville. Francisco de Lyra. Folio, (314 x 220 mm). 1 ff. Recent marbled boards. Number "214" in old ink manuscript on upper outer corner uncut.

First published in Madrid the same year. King Felipe IV forbids men to wear long hair because it “makes men look uglier”, and states fines for trespassers: 20,000 maravedis and 10 days in jail for first time offenders, the sentence would be doubled for second time offendersplus 4 years of exile, and for the third 4 years in prison. Extremely rare, we locate two copies in OCLC.

Palau 236210; OCLC: 504018291 (British Library); 1029921757 (Harvard Law School).

Early Printing & Illustration

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Early Printing & Illustration

[Fashion] Gutierre, Marques de Careaga

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